The runway of CHANEL's presentation was decked out as an art gallery filled with contemporary art installations featuring the luxury brand's products and logo, including oversized bottles of Chanel No. 5 under Plexiglas, huge canvasses bearing the ubiquitous double C logo and the iconic purse with gold chain strap. The French luxury label's Spring/Summer 2014 collection featured bright hues of raspberry, navy, bubble-gum pink and black and white, Lagerfeld played with new takes on the classic Chanel silhouette.
"I wanted a certain likeness between what is considered art and what is considered fashion but without the pretentious approach of it," explained Karl Lagerfeld.
Built-in capes and panels that opened at the thigh imparted a contemporary feel to belted jackets and ladylike skirts, while off-centre necklines or cut-outs on sleeves revealed a hint of unexpected shoulder on otherwise demure looks. Most revealing and avant-garde in their simplicity were simple panels of fabric that shielded the front torso but were affixed in the back with only a string of pearls.
There were also high-heeled spats, a purse to hold three iPods and necklaces whose two chunky pearls recalled earbuds.
But Lagerfeld departed from the classic Chanel book with a series of kaleidoscopic print dresses inspired by brushstrokes. While the brash multi-coloured palette may give some Chanel fans pause, the dresses' intricate pleating, strips of fabric that fluttered as the models moved and petal-like ruffles were delicate works of ... art.
Lagerfeld said he wanted a "very optimistic collection."
"Part of the world is depressing but there is also part of the world where people are pretty happy," he said, then offered a style tip tinged with a dose of pop psychology.
"If you're in a depressing period, you better wear something joyful (rather) than something even more depressing because you'll become even more depressed."
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