The newly-appointed chief creative officer for Burberry, Riccardo Tisci, showcased his first collection for the British label. It was a diverse, wide-ranging show, both showcasing the brand's heritage and expanding on it. The designs emphasized Burberry's proud tradition in a disciplined, orderly way that made it clear that Tisci wants to build on the brand's reputation, not rebuild it from the ground up after replacing Christopher Bailey.

The first look was, not surprisingly, a Burberry trench with a slight twist to make it Tisci's own take on what has long been a foundation of the brand's enduring popularity. The show was divided into three parts: the refined, the relaxed and evening wear. There were trench coats and car coats with cinched waists, pleated skirts and pencil shirts, and pussybow blouses for the "refined" look, which was followed by a punkier, less studied style that Tisci said was meant to capture the rebellious spirit of U.K. fashion. And finally, the evening wear, a series of spectacular, full-length black jersey dresses, some with gold detailing.

Tisci seemed in control of all these diverse approaches. Early in his reign, he doesn't want to pigeonhole Burberry and limit his future options.

"This show is a celebration of the cultures, the traditions, and the codes of this historic fashion house and of the eclecticism that makes up the beautifully diverse United Kingdom," he said.