
Celebrating Roger Dubuis' 30th anniversary, the Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar, unveiled at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2025, is a stunning blend of heritage and innovation. Drawing inspiration from the Maison’s first timepiece in 1996, it reinterprets the iconic Biretrograde display with a sophisticated, modern twist.
This timepiece combines elegance with complexity. The Biretrograde system, featuring intricate cams, springs, and clicks, ensures the calendar hands elegantly trace their path before resetting at zero in a smooth, almost hypnotic motion. At 40mm, the watch’s refined size echoes the classic proportions of Roger Dubuis’ 1990s models, while the slim 18K pink gold case and iridescent white mother-of-pearl dial capture the Maison’s early mastery of these luxurious materials. A 3D brown calf-skin leather strap completes the look, accented by a pink gold triple-folding clasp.
The dial’s design is a tribute to the past: wide Biretrograde scales curve gracefully towards the center, while the symmetrical layout mirrors the aesthetic of the 1996 original. Subtle nods to the Maison’s history include the small seconds counter at 6 o’clock and the historic "BIRETROGRADE CALENDAR" engraving in vintage font at 12 o’clock, complemented by the coveted Geneva Seal.
Inside, the Calibre RD840 movement powers the watch with 60 hours of reserve. Its meticulous craftsmanship is visible through the sapphire caseback, where an oscillating weight, inspired by the original 1996 design, has been modernized. As a final tribute to the Maison’s philosophy, a handwritten quote from Roger Dubuis appears beneath the glass: "A watch of today, inspired but not restricted by the past, projected into a future that belongs to us."
The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar is where the past meets the future in perfect harmony.
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