Giambattista Valli Fall 2016 at Haute Couture Week

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By Haute Couture Week | 5 July 2016

Italian designer Valli departed from his usual flower obsession and explored new territory, demarcating babydolls and puffballs alike with cages of crystal. He also put his heart into sleeves: big bulging meringues of satin; flapping petals of ruffled organza; billowing bells of chiffon; laterns iced with ruffles like a wedding cake, and multiple puffs in silk taffeta — sometimes three down one arm, four down the other.

These sleeves, often in contrasting colors and fabrics, added drama and a graphic punch to the short, pert and gently flaring dresses, the dominant silhouette. While a few came printed with delicate handkerchief florals, many were plain, leaving the stage to the sleeves, or long black tulle trains suspended on a grosgrain ribbons at the Empire level.

Long, dreamy chiffon columns in blush shades felt like new territory for Valli, and they were lovely. Some came gently pleated or draped, others with built-in capes.

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